How to Stop an Invasion of the Easiest Fish in the World to Catch
I leaned over the bow of a speeding boat with a long-handled net in
my hands. The muddy water of a tributary of the Missouri River splashed
my face. A fat, silver fish, as long as my arm, leapt out of the water
as I lunged for it with the net. I missed, but it didn’t matter. The
fish launched straight over my head and into the boat’s deep metal bin
made to hold the catch of the day.
This was the easiest fish I ever caught in my life, but it wasn’t
exceptional. A dozen more voluntarily followed it into the boat without
any encouragement on the part of yours truly.
These fish were silver carp, an invasive species from Asia that has
been trashing ecosystems and fisheries throughout the Missouri and
Mississippi river systems. Reaching up the Illinois and Des Plaines
rivers to only a short distance from Lake Michigan, the species is
considered the No. 1 threat to the Great Lakes if it manages to get in.
More than $200 million has been budgeted to prevent it from entering the
Great Lakes. But perhaps the real question should be why there has been
so much hand-wringing over what to do about a fish that literally jumps
into fishing boats.
The silver carp was deliberately brought to the United States during
the 1970s to help clean up pollution in fish farms. They weren’t
expected to escape, and at the time it was believed that the fish
couldn’t successfully reproduce in American waters. As it happened,
silver carp can make it just fine in the wild.
The carp’s advantage is in its method of eating. While it is capable
of feeding conventionally through its mouth, every silver carp also has
sponge-like pads on its gills that filter out tiny zooplankton and
phytoplankton and use this material as food. The principle is similar to
feeding in baleen whales. Every time this fish breathes, it eats. When
water is polluted with excessive phosphates and organic material, that
pollution helps plankton thrive, and the carp eat the plankton.
Baby silver carp hide in thick cover and grow bigger and bigger until
there isn’t anything around except for a bald eagle that could even
consider tackling them. Carp weighing 50 pounds are not unusual on the
Missouri River.
Because they eat so low on the food chain, silver carp disrupt the
food supply of everything else in the water. The total biomass of some
stretches of river now consists of up to 95 percent invasive carp.
The Army Corps of Engineers constructed a set of electronic barriers
to keep carp from migrating up a canal and into Lake Michigan. An
electric current zaps and kills any fish that try to swim through it.
Close to $200 million has already been spent on this system of barriers.
But could it be a waste of money in the long run?
The problem with the barriers is that they may stop fish, but they
cannot prevent human intervention. Fishermen catch live bait constantly
using nets and minnow traps. Very small silver carp look like many other
baitfish to the untrained eye. All it will take is one uninformed
fisherman putting a bait bucket containing some silver carp in the back
of his truck or bass boat and moving from one fishing spot on the Des
Plaines River to another spot on Lake Michigan. With these waterways
only a few miles apart in some places, it is only a matter of time until
an accidental human introduction occurs. Once this happens, that $200
million will go right down the drain.
Meanwhile, next to nothing has been spent on eradication of silver
carp in areas where they have become established. This is perplexing
because silver carp are arguably the easiest fish to catch in North
America. A genetic quirk of the population introduced to America is that
they react to the sound (or perhaps the electromagnetic signature) of a
motor by leaping madly into the air.
The most rational response to the invasion of silver carp would
probably be to drag nets through the water and catch them while
releasing native fish. This is literally stone-age technology. The
operation should be able to pay for itself by selling the fish as food.
It wouldn’t eliminate the baby fish, but at least it would lessen the
ecosystem damage from adult fish.
The flesh of the silver carp is quite palatable. I have cooked and
eaten silver carp and can testify that when they are promptly cleaned
and processed, they taste like any other firm white fish. In a blind
taste test, most people would not be able to distinguish between carp
and cod. But in today’s market, we don’t even have to worry about
whether people are willing to try eating something labeled “carp.”
Walk into the frozen food section of any grocery store and look at
the fish filets and fish sticks. Most of the packages don’t say what
species of fish it is. They could contain anything from guppies to
goldfish and we wouldn’t know the difference.
I spent some time discussing this with Phillippe Parola, a Parisian
chef who has been cooking for decades in Baton Rouge, La. As we hunted and cooked
another invasive species (nutria, a delicious giant rodent), he
described his efforts to get federal approval to market carp under the
label “silver fin.” Sort of like how Patagonian toothfish was rebranded
into “Chilean sea bass.” Parola’s labeling has been approved. The
trouble is that there is still no network of local processing plants
near the Missouri River capable of processing silver carp into the types
of food products that the American market will buy. Carp have unusual
bone structure compared with most other fish, and they require different
technology to process.
What if, instead of spending hundreds of millions of dollars on
barriers that will eventually be circumvented, we spend 10 percent of
that money on a few processing plants? With a market that would pay 25
cents or more per pound, commercial fishermen would be able to make a
reasonable living ridding the water of silver carp. When the fish
finally start to take over the Great Lakes—it’s just a matter of
time—build more processing plants.
This approach would probably never completely eliminate silver carp
in the United States. But it can keep them controlled to a point where
they don’t pose such a serious threat to ecosystems or economies.
Meanwhile, the last hope for natural control of silver carp in the
Great Lakes has recently been dashed. It had been thought that carp
would not be able to successfully reproduce in lakes. Carp eggs need to
float down many miles of moving water without sinking or they don’t
develop. Four invasive grass carp were recently found
in a tributary of Lake Erie. Analysis of the fish determined that they
had been born in the wild. Because grass carp have basically the same
spawning needs as silver carp, it looks like silver carp will have the
run of the place once they get into the lakes.
If $200 million worth of high-tech hardware won’t keep carp from
moving into the Great Lakes, then maybe it’s time to find out if some
stone-age know-how can get them out.
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